As I want the ignition independently isolated from the accessory electrics I’ve had to split the coil positive off at its join with the accessory circuit and wire it back in switched in series with that circuit.
The original 2CV fuse box uses glass fuses in a plastic case glued to the firewall at the back of the engine. As long as nothing goes wrong with it this works as well as it needs to but it’s not a solution you’d choose to keep if you were changing things.
As I’ve got a bare wiring loom for my Burton project, and I’ve done the hard work of identifying which connector is which, it was a relatively simple – if time consuming – task to replace each of the old glass fuse terminals with a female blade connector and cover them with an appropriately coloured piece of heat shrink. These then fit onto the male blade terminals of a generic after market fuse box.
Whilst there are only five fuses in a standard 2CV fuse box I’ve gone for eight as that gives me room to add fuses for some of the additional circuits I’m going to be adding – notably an electric fuel pump.
Whilst still not objectively easy, having a stripped wiring loom makes it significantly easier to identify which connector is which. To start with I’ll need the ignition and starter circuits so I can run the engine but having five holes in the wiring loom where the fuses are supposed to go makes figuring out what’s what more difficult than needs be.
So, after an evening probing around with a multimeter I’ve now identified both ends of all five fuses and which of those ends match up.
To make my life easier I have numbered them from 1 to 5:
- Instruments, indicator, wipers, alternator field (16A)
- Stop, interior and hazard lights (16A)
- Near side running lights (10A)
- Fog light (16A)
- Off side running lights (10A)
Next step will to be connect these up to a blade fuse box which will make life significantly easier and allow for fusing additional circuits.
The silver birch tree in the back garden was the tallest tree in the immediate area and it was quite nice to be able to see when coming home on the train. However, it was also right next to the house so to reduce the risk of roots getting into the foundations or branches damaging the roof it needed to be cut back.
It’s a bit more of a reduction than was planned but it was dictated by the growing points of the tree. The leader has now been taken back down below the level of the rest of the crown so as it regrows it should broaden out rather than head straight upwards again.
The day before it was cut I made a point of climbing it, as a boy I knew all the routes up the tree at the bottom of our garden so I owed it to my younger self to make my way up this one. It was fairly easy and the view from the top was well worth it.
At this point I’m standing about where the new top of the tree is.
After the initial de-clarting of the tinware I now moved on to trying to clean them up further. However, after the best part of a day (or what passes for daylight hours at this time of year) with various abrasives and power tools I’d not made much more than an impact on the surface.
As this has now sucked more than enough of my time I’ve opted to pay to have them sand blasted.
In the mean time I’ve picked up a new set of fixings to hold it all together when it’s done.
Coming out of Gilsland there is a section of Hadrian’s Wall that was built as “narrow wall” (eight Roman feet wide) on top of “broad wall” (ten Roman feet wide). As the narrow wall is later in date, this indicates that the foundations were built first and the main wall was built afterwards.
Further on there is a milecastle.
The wings of the milecastle that join into the wall are also built as broad wall and are stepped in to meet the inner face of the narrow wall. This indicates that the mile castles were built independently and before the main wall.
Further down there is the remains of a bridge abutment. This was significantly modified twice throughout its life as it was presumably damaged by by the river. To relieve pressure on the structure sluices were put into the wall on the first rebuilding.
As these seemingly didn’t prove sufficient they were widened when it was modified for the second time.
Start with a full cauliflower and an oven at 180.
In a suitable container mix a good amount of olive oil with seasoning: celery salt, pepper, coriander, cumin.
Cut the leaves off and cut a flat cone into the bottom of the stem to reduce the bulk that needs cooking. (These offcuts are good for stock.)
Rub the oil and seasoning over the cauliflower trying to get as even a coverage as possible.
Place on some parchment in a baking try.
Cover with tin foil and bake for 45 minutes.
Take the tin foil off and put an open container of water in the oven.
Bake for another 30ish minutes – keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn’t burn, adjust the temperature or take it out as appropriate.
I’ve got some Dyane tinware for the Burton engine, this has the “back end of a horse power” forced induction take off and the cylinder covers are metal rather than whatever it is the later 2CVs used. However, it’s seen better days so needs some renovation.
First off the engine mounts needed removing with the aid of heat, Super Crack Ultra, and an impact driver. With that done I’ve declarted them using pound shop oven cleaner.
Next step will be to give them a thorough going over with various grades of abrasive.