The 2Cv’s exhaust cross box is hung off bolts that go into the gearbox casing.
This does the job of holding the cross box in place – as well as the brake “cooling” ducts – but it is somewhat awkward to assemble everything together. As with the fuel pump and engine breather, the SPOG make a set of studs to replace the bolts to make assembly of parts easier. Fitting is “simply” a case of removing the old bolts and screwing in the new studs. The catch being access, even with the wings removed it’s hard to get to this area – especially to fit the studs – with the exhaust still in place.
With patience, perseverance (and some swearing) the studs went in and the exhaust cross box and brake ducts were secured with the supplied nut and washers.
Of course, the real key to the operation was the supervision of the car’s owner.
The 652cc V series engine had a few changes from the M series engine it was based on. One of these was stud mounts for the fuel pump and the engine breather/ oil filler rather than the bolts used on the M series.
As the stud mounts make it easier to fit the relevant accessories the SPOG produce stud conversions for the M series engines that replicate those found on the V series – as shown below from the Haynes Manual for the Visa.
The longer stud with the thicker band goes on the off side as there is an alternator mounting plate on that side in addition to the breather.
A new low oil pressure sender was fitted, complete with washer.
This one needed a 22mm spanner.
The oil pressure relief valve piston was liberally coated with fresh oil and inserted.
When fully home the only the nose stands proud of the housing.
The spring sits over the nose of the piston and, as I didn’t have a new copper washer, I annealed the old one by heating it until it was red hot and then letting it cool slowly.
The bolt is a 17mm and I don’t have a tightening torque for this so I went with a good strong tweak with the breaker bar which should be enough to crush the washer slightly.
Another SPOG item is the 3/4″ thread oil filter spigot. A bit of thread lock and this was firmly screwed into the oil filter mounting plate.
With a new o-ring and some sillyfoam sealant the mounting plate was re-attached to the crank case with the two alan bolts.
One of the advantages of the much more common 3/4″ thread is that a sandwich plate can be mounted. In this case I’ve got oil temperature and pressure senders – important information to have available for an air/oil cooled engine.
As I’m planning to fit an electric fuel pump I’ve got a stainless steel blanking plate for the standard, mechanical, fuel pump mounting point. This is important as, without the actuator rod, omitting the fuel pump would leave a hole in the crank case.
After applying a generous amount of high temperature sillyfoam sealant the blanking plate was secured with stainless steel M7 nuts.
