De-clarted tinware

I’ve got some Dyane tinware for the Burton engine, this has the “back end of a horse power” forced induction take off and the cylinder covers are metal rather than whatever it is the later 2CVs used. However, it’s seen better days so needs some renovation.

First off the engine mounts needed removing with the aid of heat, Super Crack Ultra, and an impact driver.  With that done I’ve declarted them using pound shop oven cleaner.

Dyane tinware being cleaned

Next step will be to give them a thorough going over with various grades of abrasive.

Specialist tool

I was doing a bit of tidying up work on the fuel tank which involves inserting some bolts vertically upwards.  The problem with this – as I learned before – is that, under the influence of gravity, they will drop back into the socket which doesn’t leave enough thread protruding to bite into the nut.

Following the principle of the sump plug socket I put a slice of fuel hose into an 11mm socket.

11mm socket with fuel hose in it

The bolt now sits on top of the fuel hose with the full amount of thread available.

11m socket with fuel hose in it holding up a bolt

Replacing 2CV rear wing retaining screws

Although someone had painted the heads silver, the original rear wing retaining screws were rusty – to the point one had seized fast and had to be cut out when we took the wings off during the rechassis.

Original 2CV rear wing retaining screws

SPOG do replacement stainless screws for these so I picked up a pack.

SPOG and original 2CV rear wing retaining screws compared

As we’d done the hard work when we took the wings off, and had reassembled using copper grease, the old screws came out one at at time to be replaced with a new one.

SPOG 2CV rear wing retaining screws

As the rivnut at the bottom of the offside wing had been seized to the screw and had come out I used a flanged stainless nylock nut for that screw.  (Standard M5 0.8 thread.)