As I want the ignition independently isolated from the accessory electrics I’ve had to split the coil positive off at its join with the accessory circuit and wire it back in switched in series with that circuit.
The original 2CV fuse box uses glass fuses in a plastic case glued to the firewall at the back of the engine. As long as nothing goes wrong with it this works as well as it needs to but it’s not a solution you’d choose to keep if you were changing things.
As I’ve got a bare wiring loom for my Burton project, and I’ve done the hard work of identifying which connector is which, it was a relatively simple – if time consuming – task to replace each of the old glass fuse terminals with a female blade connector and cover them with an appropriately coloured piece of heat shrink. These then fit onto the male blade terminals of a generic after market fuse box.
Whilst there are only five fuses in a standard 2CV fuse box I’ve gone for eight as that gives me room to add fuses for some of the additional circuits I’m going to be adding – notably an electric fuel pump.
Whilst still not objectively easy, having a stripped wiring loom makes it significantly easier to identify which connector is which. To start with I’ll need the ignition and starter circuits so I can run the engine but having five holes in the wiring loom where the fuses are supposed to go makes figuring out what’s what more difficult than needs be.
So, after an evening probing around with a multimeter I’ve now identified both ends of all five fuses and which of those ends match up.
To make my life easier I have numbered them from 1 to 5:
- Instruments, indicator, wipers, alternator field (16A)
- Stop, interior and hazard lights (16A)
- Near side running lights (10A)
- Fog light (16A)
- Off side running lights (10A)
Next step will to be connect these up to a blade fuse box which will make life significantly easier and allow for fusing additional circuits.
After the initial de-clarting of the tinware I now moved on to trying to clean them up further. However, after the best part of a day (or what passes for daylight hours at this time of year) with various abrasives and power tools I’d not made much more than an impact on the surface.
As this has now sucked more than enough of my time I’ve opted to pay to have them sand blasted.
In the mean time I’ve picked up a new set of fixings to hold it all together when it’s done.
I’ve got some Dyane tinware for the Burton engine, this has the “back end of a horse power” forced induction take off and the cylinder covers are metal rather than whatever it is the later 2CVs used. However, it’s seen better days so needs some renovation.
First off the engine mounts needed removing with the aid of heat, Super Crack Ultra, and an impact driver. With that done I’ve declarted them using pound shop oven cleaner.
Next step will be to give them a thorough going over with various grades of abrasive.
The old head studs were somewhat the worse for wear so I have got some high tensile stainless replacements. Some blue thread lock on the crank case ends and the usual double nut technique and they were installed. The two longer studs go on the top and the shorter one at the bottom.
Next the valve push rods go into the head through the push rod tubes. The more domed end goes into the rocker end and the flatter end goes into the tappets.
The adjusters should be wound fully out at this stage to make assembly easier. Some petroleum jelly will provide additional lubrication for the first run and the surface tension will hold the push rods into the cups on the actuators.
The push rod tube seals and springs need to go on – there is a right and a wrong way so check the manual to make sure you get the alignment right for the engine.
As they’re at different angles, fitting the head onto the studs and the push rods into the crank case is another three dimensional puzzle that requires some finagling before it all slots into place.
Finally the head studs are done up the initial torque. The final torquing is done once the manifolds are fitted.
With some spark plugs in turning the engine over there was a good amount of compression so that’s an encouraging sign.
Finally the rocker clearances can be set.
Note: as there isn’t any oil circulation until the engine is running, lots and lots of oil is applied everywhere during re-assembly so that there won’t be un-lubricated metal-on-metal when it starts running. Additional lubrication with petroleum jelly was applied to some virgin metal surfaces which need more lubrication, this has a higher viscosity so will adhere for a bit longer during first start-up.
Starting with the off side crank case shell (the one with the studs in it) the crank and cam shafts go in. There are locating lugs in the bearing receivers and it’s important to line up the corresponding hole in the bearing shells when placing them. If you don’t the crankcase won’t shut properly.
The timing marks on the crank and cam gears must be aligned.
The oil pickup is fitted and the retaining bolt is secured.
The crank case halves are now ready to be joined, a thin bead of high temperature sealant was run round the mating surfaces.
Final check as the crank case halves are closed, the timing marks are still aligned.
The four 16mm crank case bolts can be put in finger tight at this point.
Next, the oil pump can be fitted to the end of the cam shaft. Start with a new paper gasket, this is dry fitted with no sealant.
The housing fits into the crank case first. There is a flat that goes at the top, next to the crank shaft – this ensures the oil galleries line up correctly.
The the inner rotor goes on next, it has a flat that goes onto the flat at the end of the cam shaft.
The outer rotor goes on last as it can be easily rotated to the point where it fits with the inner rotor.
The oil pump cover receives a new o-ring and some sealant round the outer edge before it is bolted on. In order to align these bolts with the oil pump and the crank case the pump housing may need to be rotated which is why the crank case bolts haven’t been tightened yet.
With the oil pump in place, the crank case bolts can now be tightened according to the sequence and torque settings in the manual.
The two crank shaft oil seals can now be fitted. The are a push fit but the tolerances are tight so use plenty of lubrication (also prevents them tearing when first running) and carefully drift them into place.
Now’s a good time to put the tappets in – I’m using new tappets as I have a new cam shaft. These are a tight fit and plenty of lubrication is necessary.
The cylinders had previously been lapped to the crank case so time to fit the pistons. With some light persuasion the gudgeon pins slide through the pistons and the con-rod little end bearings.
With the gudgeon pin mostly through the retaining circlip can be fitted. The gudgeon pin can then be pushed through until it seats on the clirclip at which point the other circlip can be fitted.
Next step will be to fit the heads.
Most of these wires were added to the loom at crimp connectors so cutting them out cleanly was easy.
The relay one bypass was also easy to do neatly with an insulated crimp connector.
Eventually got my re-profiled cam shaft back from Kent Cams.
This has been holding up the rebuild for two months so hopefully I’ll be able to find time to make some progress now.
I’ve got a salvage wiring loom that I’m going to work up ready to fit on the Burton. The first step is to remove the wrapping to get to the wires.
This is best done with a seam ripper, it will cut the wrapping without damaging the wires themselves.
As the wrapping is removed re-usable cable ties are put at the junctions to keep the loom together whilst still allowing wires to be added and removed.