Blade fuse box for a 2CV

The original 2CV fuse box uses glass fuses in a plastic case glued to the firewall at the back of the engine.  As long as nothing goes wrong with it this works as well as it needs to but it’s not a solution you’d choose to keep if you were changing things.

2CV glass fuse box

As I’ve got a bare wiring loom for my Burton project, and I’ve done the hard work of identifying which connector is which, it was a relatively simple – if time consuming – task to replace each of the old glass fuse terminals with a female blade connector and cover them with an appropriately coloured piece of heat shrink.   These then fit onto the male blade terminals of a generic after market fuse box.

2CV blade fuze box

Whilst there are only five fuses in a standard 2CV fuse box I’ve gone for eight as that gives me room to add fuses for some of the additional circuits I’m going to be adding – notably an electric fuel pump.

2CV wiring loom debugging

Whilst still not objectively easy, having a stripped wiring loom makes it significantly easier to identify which connector is which.  To start with I’ll need the ignition and starter circuits so I can run the engine but having five holes in the wiring loom where the fuses are supposed to go makes figuring out what’s what more difficult than needs be.

So, after an evening probing around with a multimeter I’ve now identified both ends of all five fuses and which of those ends match up.

2CV wiring loom fuse connectors

To make my life easier I have numbered them from 1 to 5:

  1. Instruments, indicator, wipers, alternator field (16A)
  2. Stop, interior and hazard lights (16A)
  3. Near side running lights (10A)
  4. Fog light (16A)
  5. Off side running lights (10A)

Next step will to be connect these up to a blade fuse box which will make life significantly easier and allow for fusing additional circuits.

Continued De-clarting of tinware

After the initial de-clarting of the tinware I now moved on to trying to clean them up further. However, after the best part of a day (or what passes for daylight hours at this time of year) with various abrasives and power tools I’d not made much more than an impact on the surface.

Dyanne tinware

As this has now sucked more than enough of my time I’ve opted to pay to have them sand blasted.

In the mean time I’ve picked up a new set of fixings to hold it all together when it’s done.

Burton 2CV tinware fixings

De-clarted tinware

I’ve got some Dyane tinware for the Burton engine, this has the “back end of a horse power” forced induction take off and the cylinder covers are metal rather than whatever it is the later 2CVs used. However, it’s seen better days so needs some renovation.

First off the engine mounts needed removing with the aid of heat, Super Crack Ultra, and an impact driver.  With that done I’ve declarted them using pound shop oven cleaner.

Dyane tinware being cleaned

Next step will be to give them a thorough going over with various grades of abrasive.

2CV cylinder head fitting

With the cylinder heads and the crank case done the next step was to put them together.

The old head studs were somewhat the worse for wear so I have got some high tensile stainless replacements.  Some blue thread lock on the crank case ends and the usual double nut technique and they were installed.  The two longer studs go on the top and the shorter one at the bottom.

Fitting 2CV cylinder head studs

Fitting 2CV cylinder head studs

Next the valve push rods go into the head through the push rod tubes.  The more domed end goes into the rocker end and the flatter end goes into the tappets.

2CV pushrod ends

The adjusters should be wound fully out at this stage to make assembly easier.  Some petroleum jelly will provide additional lubrication for the first run and the surface tension will hold the push rods into the cups on the actuators.

The push rod tube seals and springs need to go on – there is a right and a wrong way so check the manual to make sure you get the alignment right for the engine.

As they’re at different angles, fitting the head onto the studs and the push rods into the crank case is another three dimensional puzzle that requires some finagling before it all slots into place.

Fitting a 2CV cylinder head

Finally the head studs are done up the initial torque.  The final torquing is done once the manifolds are fitted.

2CV cylinder head fitted

With some spark plugs in turning the engine over there was a good amount of compression so that’s an encouraging sign.

Finally the rocker clearances can be set.

2CV crank case rebuild

Assembly is – of course – the reverse of removal.

Note:  as there isn’t any oil circulation until the engine is running, lots and lots of oil is applied everywhere during re-assembly so that there won’t be un-lubricated metal-on-metal when it starts running.  Additional lubrication with petroleum jelly was applied to some virgin metal surfaces which need more lubrication, this has a higher viscosity so will adhere for a bit longer during first start-up.

Starting with the off side crank case shell (the one with the studs in it) the crank and cam shafts go in.  There are locating lugs in the bearing receivers and it’s important to line up the corresponding hole in the bearing shells when placing them.  If you don’t the crankcase won’t shut properly.

2CV crank case showing crank and cam

The timing marks on the crank and cam gears must be aligned.

2CV timing marks

The oil pickup is fitted and the retaining bolt is secured.

2CV sump oil pickup

The crank case halves are now ready to be joined, a thin bead of high temperature sealant was run round the mating surfaces.

2CV crank case before mating

Final check as the crank case halves are closed, the timing marks are still aligned.

2CV timing marks

The four 16mm crank case bolts can be put in finger tight at this point.

Next, the oil pump can be fitted to the end of the cam shaft.  Start with a new paper gasket, this is dry fitted with no sealant.

2CV oil pump gasket

The housing fits into the crank case first.  There is a flat that goes at the top, next to the crank shaft – this ensures the oil galleries line up correctly.

2CV oil pump without rotors

The the inner rotor goes on next, it has a flat that goes onto the flat at the end of the cam shaft.

2CV oil pump with inner rotor

The outer rotor goes on last as it can be easily rotated to the point where it fits with the inner rotor.

2CV fuel pump with both rotors

The oil pump cover receives a new o-ring and some sealant round the outer edge before it is bolted on.  In order to align these bolts with the oil pump and the crank case the pump housing may need to be rotated which is why the crank case bolts haven’t been tightened yet.

With the oil pump in place, the crank case bolts can now be tightened according to the sequence and torque settings in the manual.

2CV crank case without pistons

The two crank shaft oil seals can now be fitted.  The are a push fit but the tolerances are tight so use plenty of lubrication (also prevents them tearing when first running) and carefully drift them into place.

2CV front crank seal

2CV rear crank seal

Now’s a good time to put the tappets in – I’m using new tappets as I have a new cam shaft.  These are a tight fit and plenty of lubrication is necessary.

2CV tappet fitting

The cylinders had previously been lapped to the crank case so time to fit the pistons.  With some light persuasion the gudgeon pins slide through the pistons and the con-rod little end bearings.

2CV gudegon pin fitting

With the gudgeon pin mostly through the retaining circlip can be fitted.  The gudgeon pin can then be pushed through until it seats on the clirclip at which point the other circlip can be fitted.

2CV gundgeon pin circlips

Next step will be to fit the heads.

2CV engine without heads

2CV wiring loom strip

I’ve got a salvage wiring loom that I’m going to work up ready to fit on the Burton.  The first step is to remove the wrapping to get to the wires.

This is best done with a seam ripper, it will cut the wrapping without damaging the wires themselves.

Removing tape from a 2CV wiring loom with a seam ripper

As the wrapping is removed re-usable cable ties are put at the junctions to keep the loom together whilst still allowing wires to be added and removed.

Wiring loom held with re-usable zip ties