With no obvious fuel leaks the only place left it could be was the fuel pump and associated hoses.
When working on fuel lines always disconnect the battery negative before starting.
First step in removing the pump was to disconnect the fuel line at the chassis behind the near side wheel and plug the line back to the fuel tank. A catch pan is essential here. The fuel line from the pump into the carb also needs disconnecting but that doesn’t spill too much fuel.
For an engine where things are normally very accessible the fuel pump is buried behind the fan housing and oil cooler, and tucked under the near side exhaust manifold.
There are two 11mm bolts mounting it to the engine casing but getting to them proved tricky. As it’s a fair way down extender bars were going to be required – two in fact.
With a couple of extender bars being enough to get down to the pump, the1/2″ drive socket was too fat to get past the pump body and get purchase on the nut. The slimmer 3/8″ drive socket would just get down and get purchase.
With the nuts removed the pump could now be extracted which is easier said than done. It’s a bit of a 3D puzzle and you need to be careful not to damage the oil cooler fins.
Whilst you’re extracting the pump make sure you keep an eye on the spacer that sits between the pump and the engine block. Mine ended up wedged behind the cylinder head cooling duct.
With the fuel pump removed it was pretty obvious where the leak was coming from – a perished and split hose at the lower side of the pump.
Judging the by the style of the Citroën logos on the fuel hoses they were certainly old, if not even original, so not surprising they had gone – especially as they are in a high temperature environment and pre-dated bio-ethanol fuel addatives.
With the pump removed I cleaned it with the Gunk Green degreaser and cleaned and lubricated the pump drive from the operating lever.
With new fuel hoses and new clips fitted it was time to refit.
Refitting was the reverse of removal. The 3D puzzle to get the pump back into position is no easier in reverse but with newer and less compliant hoses it also means you have to pull the lower hose through as you lower the pump. After four attempts I managed to figure out the reverse of dropping the spacer behind the cooling duct was to hold it under the pump with the bolts in place and locating it on the mounting – at the second time of asking.
As leaking fuel was a safety critical item I had delayed the freeing of the stuck fan. With the fan and points shield removed access to the fuel pump mount is significantly improved.
Whilst I think I’d still go in from the top to access the mounting bolts, ensuring it’s correctly mounted on the spacer will be much easier with this access.
Whilst trying to fit it back in I found the bonnet stay was getting in my way. Simple solution to this was to slide the bonnet out of the hinge and take it off the car. With no bonnet to support the stay can be unhooked from the mount on the light bar and access is greatly improved.
With everything back in place I turned the engine with the starting handle to get the pump working and try and draw some fuel through but it still took some turning on the starter motor before catching. The throttle idle also needed adjusting and the timing seems to need adjusting as it runs on for a couple more cycles when turning the ignition off.
No more leaking fuel though.